Max altitude – 5110m
Riding time – 6 hours 15 minutes
Potentially my best day cycle touring ever. I slept poorly last night knowing that the route was a 4WD drive track and that navigation would be tricky. Woke at 7.30am, got ready and ate two pancakes and drained a cup of coffee before setting off around 9am, leaving Everest behind me in the morning light (pictured right). Endured 12kms of corrugations before heading west into 4WD territory. Ben, the guide I had met the day before, came past me in a Land Cruiser just before the turnoff to help me identify the right track to take. It wasn’t long after that they disappeared out of sight and I had to forge my own route. I ended up on a stoney river bed and had to drag my bike across a pebble field of about 500metres – slow going at nearly 5000m.
Shortly after the road rose sharply and it took
me three hours of exertion to cover 20kms on the worst surface I have ridden. I had to pick my way up a rocky track, negotiate river crossings and, when it got too steep in two or three places I had to get off and push. Despite the physical effort I revelled in the fact that all I could see were mountains, including Everest, yaks and endless plateau. No roads, no people, no noise except the wind. The summit was a relief but the ensuing downhill to the river was tricky and incredibly steep in places. I passed a guy on horse and cart about 50kms in and continued to wind my way through the valley. There was no real road to speak of, rather a series of tracks that headed in the same general direction but snaked up and down small hills and occasionally criss-crossed. For the first time on the trip I was dependent on the compass and map, rather than road signs.
Shortly after the road rose sharply and it took
me three hours of exertion to cover 20kms on the worst surface I have ridden. I had to pick my way up a rocky track, negotiate river crossings and, when it got too steep in two or three places I had to get off and push. Despite the physical effort I revelled in the fact that all I could see were mountains, including Everest, yaks and endless plateau. No roads, no people, no noise except the wind. The summit was a relief but the ensuing downhill to the river was tricky and incredibly steep in places. I passed a guy on horse and cart about 50kms in and continued to wind my way through the valley. There was no real road to speak of, rather a series of tracks that headed in the same general direction but snaked up and down small hills and occasionally criss-crossed. For the first time on the trip I was dependent on the compass and map, rather than road signs. The landscape in the valley was more Arizona than Tibet (pictured below). I was passed by only one vehicle all day and they were pretty amazed by the site. I was a bit pissed off when they pulled over 200 metres ahead, jumped out to take photos, and then jumped back in and sped away before I even got to them. How will they commentate on the photo? Here is a bloke on a bike. No idea where he was from or where he was going. Nice shot though. Welcome to Tibet zoo.
I finally wheeled into Tingri in the late afternoon and content 
that I had my best day physically since the trip started. Ben had suggested it might take up to three days to get to Tingri, but I was there in one and enjoying being at a less demanding altitude (around 4000m). Tingri was a dive and once I realised that none of the hotels offered a shower I decided to pedal on another 10kms and camp with Everest in full view. It’s a magnificent sight and one that I will miss. I cooked a half reasonable pasta which made a nice change from rice, and waited til night fall to pitch the tent in a pretty exposed field. Today I went for the million dollar view over protection from the howling wind (Everest pictured below just out of Tingri).
that I had my best day physically since the trip started. Ben had suggested it might take up to three days to get to Tingri, but I was there in one and enjoying being at a less demanding altitude (around 4000m). Tingri was a dive and once I realised that none of the hotels offered a shower I decided to pedal on another 10kms and camp with Everest in full view. It’s a magnificent sight and one that I will miss. I cooked a half reasonable pasta which made a nice change from rice, and waited til night fall to pitch the tent in a pretty exposed field. Today I went for the million dollar view over protection from the howling wind (Everest pictured below just out of Tingri). It dawned on me earlier that I have only a few days left in Tibet. I want to make this experience linger and am contemplating a detour to a sacred lake tomorrow. I will make my decision once I see what the weather is like and how I am feeling. 
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